A Bull Fight

Mike

During the first week of June there is a holiday that is specific to Granada called Corpus.  This holiday features, among other things, a series of bullfights throughout the week that generally draw the better matadors.  Culturally, we had learned how to shop at the markets, had hiked around several of the city’s important historical sites, been enjoying the Spanish custom of tapas and becoming comfortable with the use of public transportation.  Several professors at the school suggested an outing at a bullfight and we decided we’d go for the experience.

Marilyn

At the suggestion of attending a bullfight my initial reaction was, hmmmm….I don’t think I can do that.  I probably can’t sit through it and would have to leave so I should just take a pass and not include myself in this discussion.  As the professor’s talked to us about it I felt myself reconsidering.  I am in Spain, this is a cultural experience that I won’t find in many other places.  I would be attending with locals who have lot’s of knowledge and are prepared to try to explain everything to me, and sincerely want me to understand this particular custom.  More thinking required.

Mike

I felt like I was reasonably familiar with this particular extravaganza having read my Hemingway as a youngster but found there was quite a bit I didn’t know or remember.  Our professors took the time to prepare and present a little information about bullfighting in the days leading up to our outing so that we would understand what we were hearing and seeing.  The first order of business was to choose where we wished to sit.  Bullfights are held in the late afternoon so seats in the shade, logically, cost significantly more that seats in the sun.  Likewise, seats close to the ring are more expensive and we agreed with our professors that seats closer to the ring but on the sunny side would be the best value for our money because you can always wear a sombrero.  We were surprised at the prices of the tickets as we forked over the 80 euros for two mid-level priced tickets.

Marilyn

Hmmmm……we forked over the money for two tickets.  I was still having some doubts and Antonio assured me that if I did not want to stay there were several places within the Plaza de Toros where I could go have a drink and sit it out.  There would be a dozen or so of us going so it was possible I would not be the only one who was feeling a bit nervous about the whole thing.

Mike

On Friday, after school we grabbed a quick lunch with some friends, bought some bottled water and some snacks and caught the autobus for the trip across town to the Plaza de Toros.  Upon arrival we found thousands of people milling around the Plaza drinking and carrying all kinds of coolers, bota bags, hats and seat cushions and while we had all obtained sombreros we quickly decided that seat cushions were in order and stood in line to purchase some.  Our professors arrived minutes after we did carrying bota bags and bocadillos and shortly thereafter the doors opened, we found the proper entry portal “Sol” and joined the crowd streaming into the arena.

Marilyn

The atmosphere was electric around the Plaza de Toros.  The headliner matador for the bullfight was one of the top 5 in the world “El Fandi” and on top of that he is a local man from Granada so the crowd was very excited.  I learned that the bullfight would consist of 6 duels, 3 matadors fighting 2 bulls each, with a short intermission for munchies and drinks after the first 3 bulls.

Mike

It was hot and we were glad for the munchies, water, beer and wine that our group brought and, well, the bullfight went as expected with the matadors winning 6 to 1 (the first matador was gored early).  I won’t go into details here but the additional information our professors gave us regarding the sport and the traditions surrounding it helped us appreciate the skill of the matadors, the pageantry and the bravery of the bulls.  The matadors do get very close to the bulls with one matador in particular that would put his hand on the bull’s head and danced backwards until the bull stopped charging him.  This particular matador “El Fandi” thrilled the audience by kneeling in front of the door that the bulls arrive from (running, furious and crazy) with nothing but a cape.

Even though I found it to be an interesting experience I’m not in a hurry to attend another.

Marilyn

The first bull gored the matador early in the fight.  The matador “El Juli” finished the fight but killed the bull badly and it was horrible.  I decided that I should leave, Antonio and Antonio both explained that this was not normal and that I should stay for one more bull to see “El Fandi” fight at least once.  “El Juli” was taken to the hospital which meant that “El Fandi” would fight 3 bulls tonight instead of the normal 2.

I stayed and was amazed by the difference in what I saw.  El Fandi was so skilled and appeared so at ease with this huge bull in the ring, I was able to watch the artistry, skill and courage of the matador and come to grips with reasons that this sport is considered an art form in Spain.  Matadors train from the time they are small children and the years of practice certainly show.  The kill was much cleaner, faster and more humane than in the first fight thankfully.

Now, while I have an appreciation for what the Spaniards see in this experience I am satisfied that for me, experiencing it once was plenty.