Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Life is all about those pesky interruptions.....

Just when we were getting the hang of things in our town, starting to meet people we can communicate with and finding a few things to start working on, way too soon we have to pack up, cancel everything for two weeks and return to our training village for two more weeks of training. 

On the plus side we will get to see everybody that we initially trained with and hear about their experiences and new homes.  We will also get some additional language training, and some more Peace Corps administrative and technical training.

On the down side, we had found a wonderful private tutor who is working with us specifically on the language we need and we will be missing several sessions with her.  We have to stop all work and every discussion about projects and explain that we have to pick it up again in two weeks.  Worse, we have to pack for two weeks right at the time of year when it could be 80 one day and 45 the next so packing is crazy.  Finally, we have to face two more weeks of endless training sessions, some valuable - some, not so much.

Sound like we’re not enjoying training?  Guess you could say that, in our minds, the down side is winning this battle.  But, off we go, on our two hour rutiera ride to Chisinau then a quick change to the local bus and 20 minutes later we are back in our training village.  Arriving at the house was very much like going “home” since it was our first home here in Moldova and we lived in it longer than we have been at our new site. 
Seeing Iulia was great but there was definitely an air of melancholy about her, she commented that things were very difficult without Sasha.  The next day Iulia tried to talk to us a bit as she left for work and told us that there was someone sleeping in the house – we did not quite understand everything she said but since our area was accessed from a separate outside door we did not think it would be a problem if someone was staying with her so we just settled in, went about our business and thought no more of it.

As it turns out the man sleeping in the house was her son, Vitaly who lives in Russia, he had come back to Moldova to visit his mother and to handle some legal paperwork.   He is the spitting image of his father Sasha; we were absolutely amazed when we saw him!  He speaks almost no Romanian and we have no Russian but he makes a valiant effort and we do our best with charades and whatever else we can do to communicate. 

When we were here in June and July the house was very quiet, we were able to study and we saw quite a bit of Lilia and her children.  This time, Sasha is catching up with all the friends he has not seen for many years, there are people we don’t know over at the house all the time, particularly when Iulia is at work.  Thankfully with the door shut we can block most of the noise, but the trick is, getting in and through the garden into the house before anyone sees us, if we get seen it means stopping to try to chat and of course to have a few drinks.  Studying goes right out the window if you start drinking with Moldovans right after class.

We did have the pleasure of seeing Lilia, Daniela, Iuliana and Bogdan again and spent a couple of delightful evenings visiting with Iulia and the family.  Our language was definitely better, but we still struggled mightily.  Daniela still had to do quite a bit of translating.

The language lessons were challenging in ways we had not anticipated.  Since we were working with a tutor, we were in a completely different place in our learning than the classes were geared for.  Mike and I were in different classes and the content was not consistent between the classes.  It was not that we were ahead or behind, we were just studying different things.  All in all, Mike felt that his language lessons were not very valuable where I felt that I did get value from mine.

Most of the other “training sessions” were handled by volunteers who came to Moldova a year before we did and had some experiences to share.  While some of it was interesting we found that some of the younger volunteers who spoke to us appeared to be less involved in their own communities than we were already in ours.  They spoke of the difficulty in gaining the respect of their Moldovan counterparts and about many of the challenges they faced.

In these sessions we were struck by the realization that we were having a very different experience for one very simple reason.  Age, we are older than the average volunteer.  The culture in Moldova ascribes a certain amount of respect to people simply on the basis that you have lived life for a while.  It is interesting to note that in Moldova “youth” programs are open to anyone age 18-29 and many are open for people up to age 35.  The age grid in Moldova goes something like this:
Under 19 – child
20 to 30-35 – youth
35 to 50 – adult
50 to 65 – experienced, respected older person
65 and on up – very respected elder (as in, why aren’t you dead yet?)

You do not get brownie points in Moldova for getting through the University early and working on things that no one else around you will ever understand because you are a physics savant; to an adult Moldovan, until you are 35, you are just a kid, not matter how smart or accomplished you are.  We have met extremely bright, accomplished, young Americans serving here and discovered that quite a few have very real difficulty in getting traction with their Moldovan counterparts, unless the counterparts are of a similar age.  

In the time we were in our training village the weather went from late summer to decidedly fall.  There is no heat in the room we were in (the camera mare) so we found that we were heading for bed early whenever possible just to stay warm.  The outhouse is a long ways away when it is 5C outside!  We poured buckets of water heated on the stove into the barrel atop the summer shower every other day or so.  Multiple layers of clothes, sweaters and jackets were piled on as October began and training wound up. 

Many of the volunteers planned to spend the weekend after training in Chisinau as the first weekend in October is the National Wine Festival.  While we love wine and were very interested in the Festival, we found ourselves really wanting to be back at our site.  We figured that the festival would happen again next year so there would be another chance to attend.

Reversing our trip we found ourselves back home and as we walked from the bus station to our home we found a whole lot of activity in our main square and surprise, surprise, we have our own wine festival brewing up for Sunday!  We were so glad we did not stay in Chisinau. 

Back at the house we found Andrei preparing the first soba of the year to warm one of our rooms.  A soba, for those of you who don’t know, is a special fireplace designed to heat a wall of a room.  I don’t think it was an hour before our Peace Corps carbon monoxide monitor was shrieking.  Andrei came running up the stairs wanting to know what all the commotion was about.  We aired out the room and reset the monitor and it didn’t go off again that night.  We simply assumed that the chimneys needed to air themselves out a little.

We turned our attention to unpacking the rest of our luggage to get to the coats and boots that had not been out of the bags since our arrival.  Looking forward to the festival we also found ourselves anxious to get to work, with no more interruptions in sight, and even more anxious about the onset of winter, we have not experienced a real winter since moving to California in 1988. 

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